The Role of Harem Pants in Culture
Ask someone what the current fashion trend is, and most people will mention the infamous “harem pant” craze that has swept the western world. As far as fashion statements go, we've had the privilege of seeing dresses made entirely out of raw meat, little hats that take up 1/8 of our head, a constant push for a suspenders revival – the list could go on forever. Here’s the real question: what brought about these seemingly outrageous trends, specifically the harem pant, in the first place? Today, these “drop-crotch” pants can be seen anywhere from the runway to the workplace. Trying to appeal to the “high culture” aspect of American civilization, the pants are designed with a business-like, chic, and formal style. The term “harem pant” has now been generalized to describe any pant with a generally low dropping crotch seam (Nguyen): ranging from MC Hammer’s overly-baggy “parachute pants” to a slimmer fit more accustomed to today’s skinny jean youth. Surprisingly, this fashion statement has widely unknown, yet interesting origins.
First seen in Persia 2,000 years ago, the pants were worn by women among different middle-eastern tribes to represent modesty and innocence (Henderson). This can be seen through the style and design of the pants: they are loose around the hips and legs, diminishing any trace of a feminine body shape. The trousers were a symbol of the Muslim women’s role as a “patriarchal property and ‘underdeveloped’ personality”, also seen in the loose fit of the pants (Nguyen). Men and other family members wore the pants when doing chores at home., as their baggy fit allowed them to comfortably complete these tasks. Salvars and Shalwar are a few of the commonly used names for the pants during this time period. An essential part of everyday life, the Persian word “Salvar” actually means “pants” (Henderson). Obviously, the pants meant much more than a stylistic choice during this time period.
In Western culture, the stylish trouser made its debut in the mid 1800’s with the help of the infamous woman’s rights activist Amelia Bloomer – hence the name “bloomers”—and gained popularity throughout many feminine groups including suffragists and Strangite Mormons (Fischer 111). The pants served as a uniform for the persevering women, illustrating the gender boundaries they intended to break: pants had not been worn by women in public before this time period. The women wore the pants with purpose, not with style. Post-suffragist days, however, the pants seemed to fall under the radar when the women earned the right to vote.
Another rebirth of the harem pant fad took place in American and Western European culture when French designer Paul Poiret included oriental and Persian influences in his 1909 collection. Women began dressing in the pants as they were expanding their traditional apparel boundaries and wearing what was considered “provocative” clothing. Trousers, traditionally worn in western culture by men, were a bold new statement in gender identity for these turn-of-the-century women. By wearing these pants, women were intentionally dressing like men, and therefore associating themselves with male power and privilege (Fischer 112). Much like their suffragist relatives, the pants served as a voice to the female population.
These “drop-crotch” pants made more recent revivals with the help of their appearance in American rapper MC Hammer’s “U Can’t Touch This” music video in the 1980’s and once again in 2009 with the positive reception to their role in the spring fashion shows by Ralph Lauren. In these cases, American pop culture stimulated the popularity in the pants. But, what does the pant’s unique evolution illustrate about our society today versus that of the past? American women are currently not struggling for their rights, and the trousers are worn by people of various religions. Therefore, why the sudden interest? Today, contrasting previous cultural waves, Americans are constantly looking for ways to be unique. We want to stand out in the crowd, but in a safe enough way that we will not be rejected. By wearing these “untraditional trousers,” and the help of their celebrity endorsements, individuals are drawing just enough attention to themselves without being rejected – an aspiring aspect of the modern American dream. The pants represent what today’s society is aiming for: individuality within the boundaries.
First seen in Persia 2,000 years ago, the pants were worn by women among different middle-eastern tribes to represent modesty and innocence (Henderson). This can be seen through the style and design of the pants: they are loose around the hips and legs, diminishing any trace of a feminine body shape. The trousers were a symbol of the Muslim women’s role as a “patriarchal property and ‘underdeveloped’ personality”, also seen in the loose fit of the pants (Nguyen). Men and other family members wore the pants when doing chores at home., as their baggy fit allowed them to comfortably complete these tasks. Salvars and Shalwar are a few of the commonly used names for the pants during this time period. An essential part of everyday life, the Persian word “Salvar” actually means “pants” (Henderson). Obviously, the pants meant much more than a stylistic choice during this time period.
In Western culture, the stylish trouser made its debut in the mid 1800’s with the help of the infamous woman’s rights activist Amelia Bloomer – hence the name “bloomers”—and gained popularity throughout many feminine groups including suffragists and Strangite Mormons (Fischer 111). The pants served as a uniform for the persevering women, illustrating the gender boundaries they intended to break: pants had not been worn by women in public before this time period. The women wore the pants with purpose, not with style. Post-suffragist days, however, the pants seemed to fall under the radar when the women earned the right to vote.
Another rebirth of the harem pant fad took place in American and Western European culture when French designer Paul Poiret included oriental and Persian influences in his 1909 collection. Women began dressing in the pants as they were expanding their traditional apparel boundaries and wearing what was considered “provocative” clothing. Trousers, traditionally worn in western culture by men, were a bold new statement in gender identity for these turn-of-the-century women. By wearing these pants, women were intentionally dressing like men, and therefore associating themselves with male power and privilege (Fischer 112). Much like their suffragist relatives, the pants served as a voice to the female population.
These “drop-crotch” pants made more recent revivals with the help of their appearance in American rapper MC Hammer’s “U Can’t Touch This” music video in the 1980’s and once again in 2009 with the positive reception to their role in the spring fashion shows by Ralph Lauren. In these cases, American pop culture stimulated the popularity in the pants. But, what does the pant’s unique evolution illustrate about our society today versus that of the past? American women are currently not struggling for their rights, and the trousers are worn by people of various religions. Therefore, why the sudden interest? Today, contrasting previous cultural waves, Americans are constantly looking for ways to be unique. We want to stand out in the crowd, but in a safe enough way that we will not be rejected. By wearing these “untraditional trousers,” and the help of their celebrity endorsements, individuals are drawing just enough attention to themselves without being rejected – an aspiring aspect of the modern American dream. The pants represent what today’s society is aiming for: individuality within the boundaries.
Works Cited
Works Cited
Bill, Katina. Attitudes Towards Women’s Trousers: Britain in the 1930’s. JSTOR. Oxford
University Press, 1993. Print. March 4, 2013.
Fischer, Gale V. "Pantalets" and "Turkish Trowsers": Designing Freedom in the Mid-
nineteenth-Century United States. JSTOR. Feminist Studies Inc., Spring 1997. Print. March 4,
2013.
Henderson, Joel. “The History of Harem Pants”. YahooVoices.Yahoo Inc. February 25,
2010. Web. March 4, 2013.
Nguyen, Mimi Thi. “History and the Harem Pant”. ThreadBared.com. n.p. May 28, 2009. Web.
March 4, 2013.
Shea, H. Renee, Lawrence Scanlon, and Robin Dissin Aufses. The Language of Composition.
Boston, New York: Bedford/St.Martin’s, 2008. Print.
Bill, Katina. Attitudes Towards Women’s Trousers: Britain in the 1930’s. JSTOR. Oxford
University Press, 1993. Print. March 4, 2013.
Fischer, Gale V. "Pantalets" and "Turkish Trowsers": Designing Freedom in the Mid-
nineteenth-Century United States. JSTOR. Feminist Studies Inc., Spring 1997. Print. March 4,
2013.
Henderson, Joel. “The History of Harem Pants”. YahooVoices.Yahoo Inc. February 25,
2010. Web. March 4, 2013.
Nguyen, Mimi Thi. “History and the Harem Pant”. ThreadBared.com. n.p. May 28, 2009. Web.
March 4, 2013.
Shea, H. Renee, Lawrence Scanlon, and Robin Dissin Aufses. The Language of Composition.
Boston, New York: Bedford/St.Martin’s, 2008. Print.
